Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: What is the current evidence?

Bakuchiol is increasingly promoted as a natural and gentler alternative to retinol. It appears in serums, moisturizers, eye creams and even sunscreens—but can it genuinely provide the same benefits as retinol?

As a dermatologist, I find bakuchiol interesting and promising, particularly for people who cannot tolerate retinoids. However, it is important to distinguish encouraging preliminary research from firmly established clinical evidence.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound traditionally obtained from Psoralea corylifolia, also known as the babchi plant. Although it is often described as “plant-based retinol,” bakuchiol is not a retinoid and has a completely different chemical structure.

Laboratory studies suggest that it can influence some of the same biological pathways as retinol. It may support collagen production, provide antioxidant activity and reduce certain inflammatory processes. This functional similarity is why bakuchiol is frequently marketed as a retinol alternative.

What does the clinical evidence show?

The strongest direct comparison comes from a randomized, double-blind study involving 44 participants with facial photoaging.

For 12 weeks:

• One group applied 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily.
• The other group applied 0.5% retinol once daily.
• Both groups experienced improvements in fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
• No significant difference was detected between the two groups (meaning, Bakuchiol showed as good results as retinol) 
• Retinol caused more scaling and stinging.

These results are encouraging, especially for sensitive skin. However, this was a small and relatively short study. Bakuchiol was also applied twice daily, whereas retinol was used once daily. The absence of a statistically significant difference does not automatically prove that the two ingredients are clinically equivalent.

Retinoids have been investigated for decades and remain among the best-studied topical ingredients for photoaging and acne. Bakuchiol does not yet have this level of evidence.

Can bakuchiol improve acne and pigmentation?

Early studies suggest that bakuchiol may reduce inflammatory acne lesions and improve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Its possible anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant effects could be useful, particularly for acne-prone skin that becomes irritated by conventional retinoids.

However, the evidence is still limited. Some studies included only a small number of participants, did not have a control group or tested products containing several active ingredients. When bakuchiol is combined with retinol, vitamin C, melatonin or other antioxidants, it becomes difficult to determine how much of the improvement was caused by bakuchiol itself.

For this reason, I would not yet consider bakuchiol a replacement for established acne treatments such as topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid.

Is bakuchiol better tolerated than retinol?

This may be bakuchiol’s most convincing advantage.

Retinoids can cause dryness, erythema, peeling and burning, particularly during the first weeks of treatment. Bakuchiol generally appears to cause less irritation and may therefore be an interesting option for:

• Sensitive or reactive skin
• Skin that does not tolerate retinol
• People who repeatedly develop retinoid dermatitis
• Beginners who want to introduce an anti-ageing active gradually

Nevertheless, “plant-derived” does not automatically mean non-irritating or allergy-free. Contact dermatitis caused by bakuchiol has been reported, although it appears to be uncommon. Patch-testing a new product is sensible for very sensitive or eczema-prone skin.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

Bakuchiol is not a retinoid and therefore does not carry the same established concerns associated with vitamin A derivatives. However, there are currently insufficient human pregnancy data to state that it is definitively safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

I would therefore avoid advertising bakuchiol as a “proven pregnancy-safe retinol alternative.” Anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should discuss the specific product and its complete formulation with their physician.

My recommendations for using bakuchiol

If you would like to introduce bakuchiol into your skincare routine, I recommend choosing a product that clearly states its concentration. Most of the relevant clinical evidence has investigated approximately 0.5% bakuchiol.

Start by applying it once daily, preferably in the evening. If your skin tolerates it well, some formulations can also be used twice daily.

A simple routine could look like this:

Morning

1. Gentle cleanser
2. Antioxidant serum if desired
3. Moisturizer
4. Broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30–50

Evening

1. Gentle cleanser
2. Bakuchiol serum or cream
3. Moisturizer

Bakuchiol can usually be combined with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, panthenol, niacinamide and squalane.

Although bakuchiol appears gentler than retinol, I would still introduce only one new active ingredient at a time. This makes it easier to recognize irritation or an allergic reaction.

Can bakuchiol and retinol be used together?

They can be included in the same formulation or routine, but this combination is not automatically necessary.

Bakuchiol may provide additional antioxidant or soothing effects, while retinol remains the better-established active ingredient. However, a product containing both ingredients can still cause typical retinoid irritation. The presence of bakuchiol does not neutralize retinol’s potential side effects.

If your skin already tolerates retinol well, there is currently no strong evidence that replacing it with bakuchiol will produce superior results. If you cannot tolerate retinol, using bakuchiol alone may be a reasonable alternative.

My dermatologist’s conclusion

Bakuchiol should neither be dismissed as a passing trend nor presented as a fully proven natural equivalent to retinol.

The current evidence suggests that bakuchiol may modestly improve fine lines, uneven pigmentation and overall skin texture while producing less irritation than retinol. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are also scientifically interesting.

However, the available studies are generally small, short and often evaluate combination products. Retinoids therefore remain the more evidence-based choice for photoaging and acne.

My practical recommendation is simple: if you tolerate retinol, it remains the stronger evidence-based option. If your skin is sensitive or repeatedly reacts to retinoids, a well-formulated product containing approximately 0.5% bakuchiol is a reasonable and promising alternative.

And whichever active ingredient you choose, daily sunscreen remains the most important step for preventing premature skin ageing.

 

Sources: 

• Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature, Puyana et al,  J Cosmet Dermatol, 2022 Dec.